Friday, August 14, 2009
I have never been so impressed with my legs! Aya and I got to the summit of Africa's second highest peak- Mount Cameroon. I think it is 4,099 meters and we made it with minimal altitude issues and no injuries! The way up was challenging and thrilling. Contrary to what the locals told us the weather was beautiful. In fact the sun you see here is the best sunshine we've gotten throughout our whole stay in Buea. Once you get above the permanent cloud cover the air is drier and the landscape surreal. The way down was probably the longest duration of pain I've ever experienced as I forgot to pack Advil. Overall the climb was the coolest thing I think I've ever done.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Interesting...
if anyone has time it's really interesting to read my friend Helen's blog. I met her in Buea and worked with her for a month. She is an amazing person and I definitely have referenced her in this blog. She is now in the United States where she'll be living permanently. She's never left Cameroon before and her impressions will be really interesting. She's an incredible writer and I loved what I just read of her blog!
her blog, "New Soul" is at outofbuea.blogspot.com
Also, how's it going with the hunt for Star Trek DVDs? I am not above pirating...
her blog, "New Soul" is at outofbuea.blogspot.com
Also, how's it going with the hunt for Star Trek DVDs? I am not above pirating...
Work
I haven’t posted much about my experience at the Elyon Rock Foundation because every day I leave with a different feeling. In reflection I never really know what to make of it. I guess I can elaborate on the complexity that is the work situation here in Cameroon. And I mean work in the broadest sense because the problems facing this NGO are present in every single business in this country. Work, for people here goes like this:
Every morning I wake up and go to work and there’s really no problem if we are ten or twenty or thirty minutes late because I think everyone is. And if not, then somehow being temporary unpaid international interns in the foundation makes us impervious to rules which might apply to employees. We never knowingly take advantage of these relaxed rules, but I think we are late more frequently here than we would be at home becsue its so acceptable. I actually have a hard time accepting my own tardiness because I know I am on some level not contribution my very best here, but the climate of mediocrity (when it comes to productivity ad output) is so pervasive that the other two interns and I are just trying not to get completely swept away in it. I guess I can some it all up this way: it feels like I am 60% on vacation and 40% here to work productively. And I would add that that’s on a good day.
It’s tough because I’ve reserved making judgments about the African work ethic due to the economic situation here. What I see (or to be correct what I used to see- let me get to that later) in the office are two employees, Pam and Sammy, Bill in his office and two to four volunteers who after three months of “probation” have the potential to be paid. They are all idly pecking on computers or reading reports that have been re-written literally four times. Bill funds this very nice third-floor office and underlying two-story school facility with his family’s money. Bill’s parents are a chief and a princess, his brother is a neurologist in Italy, his sister a fashion designer in Washington state, and his other brother is somewhere else abroad making a ton of money. So he gets money from the fam; probably from his siblings as a thank-you for staying home to take care of their mom, as I think she’s pretty sick. Bill’s dream is to create movies, and as he is very religious and sensitive to the social inequities here he decided in college that he would create socially-relevant films and pioneer the Cameroonian film industry. I wish he could have just stayed with the one consolidated dream and go after it, but I think he began an NGO because that’s how someone with limited means can start a company here, call it an NGO, do some charitable things, get some foreign funding and you’re all set. The only money seems to come from outside Cameroon. Spoke with a recent graduate from the University of Buea last night (an AIESECer of course) and he said that the only way to get employment here is to start your own business. There are no jobs to be found for even the most qualified individuals. Either start your own here (somehow) or get out of the country.
I will try to get to the point here: the reason everyone is so non-productive is because there is only enough money for rent for this space. There’s no money to advertise the upcoming Shalom Academy enrollment period in which we need ten students to enroll in all of the following schools: Business and Management, Social Studies, Creative Arts, and Information Technology, in order to actually break even. There’s no money to pay the promised and to-be publicized scholarship in tuition for qualified staff members of community-based organizations and social rehabilitation groups, as well as current students. Thus we have empty promises and cannot fund execution of this project which has cost Bill so much money that he hasn’t paid Pam and Sammy for three months. But this is a viscous cycle, just keep reading.
So he’s sunk all this money into the first financially sustainable dream he’s dreamt (among MANY unexecuted, poorly-planned dreams) and he can’t get the return because we don’t have money. And he’s relying on his three interns to get donor funding before enrollment ends in October and theoretically classes begin. But no Foundation will ever give him money because it’s not viable.
Poor Bill has given assignments to his volunteers and Pam and Sammy in hopes that they can pull together a budget and prepare us with the logistics we need to write these proposals. Sometimes I write bullshit about what I think they should do, for instance to evaluate the success of Shalom Academy by holding board meetings and feedback session with faculty and handing out evaluation forms to students, and then he’ll read it and say, “that’s a great idea, we will definitely do that.” So that part has been fun. But as far as receiving any hard information on logistics, the most I have gotten is a problem tree (e.g. economic hardship leads to illiteracy leads to unemployment and Shalom Academy will solve that), addressing none of the budgeting or logistical concerns. I am not even convinced that we have teachers still on board to teach in October.
So today Laura, Aya, and I walked in and no one was here but Bill. My heart sunk because Bill is an awesome guy and although he lacks practical business skills he has a great heart and it’s sad that his unpaid team had no choice but to desert him. But no, Pam and Sammy did eventually come to work, but the rest of the volunteers have left. It’s funny because in all the proposals I have still been instructed to write that the staffing of Elyon Rock Foundation is “composed of the senate made up of eight staff members, the committee of joint heads made up of six staff members, and general members and volunteers”. I have no idea if they’ll actually make me write the names of former employees and volunteers, (as there have been many) or if they will eventually realize that that’s illegal. Maybe I’ll have to remind them…
In comparison to the output of the staff here the interns are this organization’s life force. We are teaching HIV/AIDS classes (completely funding transport and materials ourselves, but it’s so cheap and there’s no point to ask for money) every morning reaching 200 students overall. This month we’re going to try to reach 700 in conjunction with other AIESECers working in other NGOs. After the morning classes and lunch we come back to work and write inquiry letters and proposals. I hope to get them all sent before the end of next week so that if any reply positively I can show Pam what we’ve been doing so she can execute the full proposal and maybe get some money.
It’s just this dismal cycle that I could analyze for a long time… they have no money, they must spend time trying to find it but also show donors that they are viable and productive and already self-sustainable. Yeah right. And then they can’t do much without money in the first place and what they could maybe fund should rightfully be the employees’ salary… and when the employee’s aren’t paid of course they are going to lay their heads down on their desks and take naps and download pictures and songs and do NOTHING PRODUCTIVE AT ALL.
So to wrap this rant up, this experience overall has been very illustrative and leaves me realizing the importance of development from inside a country, the power of strategy and logistics, and how lucky I was to be born in a place where all this stuff had been streamlined a long time ago- above of the curve globally-speaking. Development is on the other side of that curve here in Africa and it’s personally enriching for me to have to deal with it.
Every morning I wake up and go to work and there’s really no problem if we are ten or twenty or thirty minutes late because I think everyone is. And if not, then somehow being temporary unpaid international interns in the foundation makes us impervious to rules which might apply to employees. We never knowingly take advantage of these relaxed rules, but I think we are late more frequently here than we would be at home becsue its so acceptable. I actually have a hard time accepting my own tardiness because I know I am on some level not contribution my very best here, but the climate of mediocrity (when it comes to productivity ad output) is so pervasive that the other two interns and I are just trying not to get completely swept away in it. I guess I can some it all up this way: it feels like I am 60% on vacation and 40% here to work productively. And I would add that that’s on a good day.
It’s tough because I’ve reserved making judgments about the African work ethic due to the economic situation here. What I see (or to be correct what I used to see- let me get to that later) in the office are two employees, Pam and Sammy, Bill in his office and two to four volunteers who after three months of “probation” have the potential to be paid. They are all idly pecking on computers or reading reports that have been re-written literally four times. Bill funds this very nice third-floor office and underlying two-story school facility with his family’s money. Bill’s parents are a chief and a princess, his brother is a neurologist in Italy, his sister a fashion designer in Washington state, and his other brother is somewhere else abroad making a ton of money. So he gets money from the fam; probably from his siblings as a thank-you for staying home to take care of their mom, as I think she’s pretty sick. Bill’s dream is to create movies, and as he is very religious and sensitive to the social inequities here he decided in college that he would create socially-relevant films and pioneer the Cameroonian film industry. I wish he could have just stayed with the one consolidated dream and go after it, but I think he began an NGO because that’s how someone with limited means can start a company here, call it an NGO, do some charitable things, get some foreign funding and you’re all set. The only money seems to come from outside Cameroon. Spoke with a recent graduate from the University of Buea last night (an AIESECer of course) and he said that the only way to get employment here is to start your own business. There are no jobs to be found for even the most qualified individuals. Either start your own here (somehow) or get out of the country.
I will try to get to the point here: the reason everyone is so non-productive is because there is only enough money for rent for this space. There’s no money to advertise the upcoming Shalom Academy enrollment period in which we need ten students to enroll in all of the following schools: Business and Management, Social Studies, Creative Arts, and Information Technology, in order to actually break even. There’s no money to pay the promised and to-be publicized scholarship in tuition for qualified staff members of community-based organizations and social rehabilitation groups, as well as current students. Thus we have empty promises and cannot fund execution of this project which has cost Bill so much money that he hasn’t paid Pam and Sammy for three months. But this is a viscous cycle, just keep reading.
So he’s sunk all this money into the first financially sustainable dream he’s dreamt (among MANY unexecuted, poorly-planned dreams) and he can’t get the return because we don’t have money. And he’s relying on his three interns to get donor funding before enrollment ends in October and theoretically classes begin. But no Foundation will ever give him money because it’s not viable.
Poor Bill has given assignments to his volunteers and Pam and Sammy in hopes that they can pull together a budget and prepare us with the logistics we need to write these proposals. Sometimes I write bullshit about what I think they should do, for instance to evaluate the success of Shalom Academy by holding board meetings and feedback session with faculty and handing out evaluation forms to students, and then he’ll read it and say, “that’s a great idea, we will definitely do that.” So that part has been fun. But as far as receiving any hard information on logistics, the most I have gotten is a problem tree (e.g. economic hardship leads to illiteracy leads to unemployment and Shalom Academy will solve that), addressing none of the budgeting or logistical concerns. I am not even convinced that we have teachers still on board to teach in October.
So today Laura, Aya, and I walked in and no one was here but Bill. My heart sunk because Bill is an awesome guy and although he lacks practical business skills he has a great heart and it’s sad that his unpaid team had no choice but to desert him. But no, Pam and Sammy did eventually come to work, but the rest of the volunteers have left. It’s funny because in all the proposals I have still been instructed to write that the staffing of Elyon Rock Foundation is “composed of the senate made up of eight staff members, the committee of joint heads made up of six staff members, and general members and volunteers”. I have no idea if they’ll actually make me write the names of former employees and volunteers, (as there have been many) or if they will eventually realize that that’s illegal. Maybe I’ll have to remind them…
In comparison to the output of the staff here the interns are this organization’s life force. We are teaching HIV/AIDS classes (completely funding transport and materials ourselves, but it’s so cheap and there’s no point to ask for money) every morning reaching 200 students overall. This month we’re going to try to reach 700 in conjunction with other AIESECers working in other NGOs. After the morning classes and lunch we come back to work and write inquiry letters and proposals. I hope to get them all sent before the end of next week so that if any reply positively I can show Pam what we’ve been doing so she can execute the full proposal and maybe get some money.
It’s just this dismal cycle that I could analyze for a long time… they have no money, they must spend time trying to find it but also show donors that they are viable and productive and already self-sustainable. Yeah right. And then they can’t do much without money in the first place and what they could maybe fund should rightfully be the employees’ salary… and when the employee’s aren’t paid of course they are going to lay their heads down on their desks and take naps and download pictures and songs and do NOTHING PRODUCTIVE AT ALL.
So to wrap this rant up, this experience overall has been very illustrative and leaves me realizing the importance of development from inside a country, the power of strategy and logistics, and how lucky I was to be born in a place where all this stuff had been streamlined a long time ago- above of the curve globally-speaking. Development is on the other side of that curve here in Africa and it’s personally enriching for me to have to deal with it.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Kumba
This weekend the girls and I went to Kumba at the request of our AIESEC friend Tbong Arnold Tbong. We call him Arnold. Aya and I went on Friday night and wanted to get there before dark, so we made it to Mile 17 (the van-loading transfer place- basically a muddy parking lot with vendors and chaos) by 6:30. Arnold told us that it would take an hour from Buea to Kumba at most, so we knew we were cutting it close but we should have been fine. That is if the van filled to capacity quickly, which it didn’t. I can see now why Africans are generally not the most punctual. Their transportation is the epitome of unreliable. We sat in the van for 3 hours waiting. There were no other vans to Kumba. We finally got there at 10:30 which was fine because Arnold’s sister from The States was visiting and she had set the trend in their family to stay up late. In fact, she didn’t serve the family the dinner she’d prepared until we got there at 10:30. Aya and I felt really bad but it’s the way of the amazing African host to suffer for their guests’ comfort.
Arnold’s family is pretty interesting, at least to a non-African. His now American sister moved to the US when she was 21 with her husband. She studied at night college and then got her masters and now is a K-3rd grade teacher in Newark, living in Easton, PA. She is the second girl of 8 kids total, Arnold being somewhere in the middle. Arnold’s mom is his father’s second wife. His dad is the chief of their tribe and the district magistrate or something, which means that he’s entitled to having many wives. He has three total. We met wife #1 and she seemed very demure and of course, welcoming. One of Arnold’s brothers lives in China, and the oldest sister lives in Yaoundé. We’re going to see her next weekend when I go visit Janet the ambassador. We’ll be able to stay with the sister Nelly, and that will be really nice. Also Vitalis, (the friend who is still very interested in Star Trek tapes) has a sister there so that will be really nice to diffuse the Arnold family-ness.
And here’s why diffusion will be a good thing. I had never really given Asher, the American trainee from the US who’s been staying in an African home with her boss and boss’s family since we got here, always complained about the way the family treated her, until this weekend. In African household kids are seen as free labor, sort of like how my dad sees us. JK, it’s not even close. When we got to Arnold’s the kids (his sibling and half-siblings) snatched our shoes and went to clean them. I have literally never seen my sneakers that clean since the day I bought them, and they had layers and layers of red African mud plus Glens Falls Hospital grossness on them. They did this throughout our 3-night stay in Kumba. Also, the royal treatment extended to Arnold paying for EVERYTHING, which was his prerogative so ultimately I let him after much resistance, but it gave me a really weird feeling to let him pay for our food and drinks and transportation and everything. I don’t even want to think about how far back this weekend has set him. And finally there was this overarching feeling of overprotection and possessiveness. When we went to the market Arnold and his half brother Hilary wouldn’t let us look at whatever we wanted, we had to go to stands that were secluded because they were convinced we’d be stolen from them or mugged or something if we walked where everyone else was. Also, at the club we went to with Arnold and his weird uncles and Yvette, the now-American, there was a drunk guy who kept trying to dance with Laura and I, which is normal anywhere in the world, but the men in our party WAY overreacted. The guy followed our group out to the taxi and asked Laura for her number and she said no thanks and got in the cab and we thought that would be that but the men we were with actually ended up yelling and punching and beating the guy. I believe that was the turning point at which Laura and I decided their protection was unnecessary and creepy. Lastly, I plan on climbing Mount Cameroon this weekend, and Arnold kept saying “if I had my way you wouldn’t climb the mountain, it’s really cold and very slippery in the rainy season blah blah”. I am SO glad not to be an African woman, because I would have to put up with this crap from men all the time and it’s ridiculous. I could analyze this more objectively from an anthropological perspective but I’m tired of doing that all the time so I am just going to say that it sucks for African women. SUCKS.
Kumba overall was great, as was living with a family, though Laura and I both decided that we no longer envy Asher’s opportunity to live full-time with one. I drew several portraits of Arnold family members and one was really good. Tatiana and Cynthia, Arnold’s sisters braided my hair and Aya’s and I think we look pretty good. I have gotten many compliments from Cameroonians and trainees so it must be OK, although I don’t have a mirror (SO liberating by the way, everyone should go 8 weeks without a mirror at some point in their lives).
On the subject of hair, here goes some observations. Appearance is very important to Cameroonians. I don’t even know what the GDP of Cameroon is, but just think really really really low. And somehow people are dressed quite well, albeit mismatched at times or wearing what an American would try to sell at a yard sale. Overall though, they have great fashion sense and work with what is available to them in the way of clothes. But what really mystifies me is their hair styles. I always wondered how the got their hair to be so beautifully straight and glossy, and a few weeks ago co-workers revealed their secrets. They wear wigs. Their real hair is usually pretty short and braided in cornrows to their head. Then wigs are sewed to the corn rows. I cannot imagine how uncomfortable it would be to wear a wig like that for four months at a time. But that’s the norm here. The other thing is hair attachments. These are strips of hair (plastic Africa-textured hair in any color imaginable that are sold all over the place) that are glued to real hair or sewed in a mysterious way. Finally there are braids. Braids would be no good if there was nothing artificial to work into them, which is what Aya and I finally opted for this weekend. We bought what is called mesh, and that mesh was braided into cornrows of our real hair and then the ed were dipped in boiling water which makes them just grip togther enough to look real still but keep the braid from unwinding itself. Quite ingenios. Right now my head is itching so bad. Any African woman mustn’t get her hair wet (not sure why yet- to be answered later) so they walk around with plastic bags on their heads a lot because we are in the rainy season. Also shampooing a wig or attachments or braids is a no-go. I was advised to keep the braids in for one month but I don’t know if I will even be able to fall asleep tonight with the itching like it is now but I will really try to suffer through it
Another observation about Cameroonian appearances: they all know how to walk in mud so that they don’t get a spec on them. I am only slightly clumsy and focus VERY hard on trying to keep on solid dry-ish clay rather than deep mud wherever we go, but I still find myself with must between my foot and flip flop every time I walk outside. Still, and I am till not used to the squishy feeling and the clean-up. But what people here lack in speed they make up for in treading carefully and cleanly. I never see dirty hemlines or shoes or sandals or toes. It’s amazing. And the clean-shoe obsession is African, not Western. We tend to sacrifice the appearance of our footwear because we can buy more shoes when the ones we own are old or dirty, but when you can’t you protect and constantly clean the ones you have. In fact, Westerners like the broken-in look to some extent, but that is not attractive to people here. They like brand-spanking new.
Cameroonians are just immaculate all around though. They have spotless taxis and hallways and porches and carpets (no vacuums though, so again, I have no idea how they achieve this). I think cleanliness is a HUGE value to them. They shower despite limited running water at least once every day.
One Cameroonian friend Helen, (going to live in the US on Thursday actually, it’s really a cool think to be here while she gets ready to join her sister in Baltimore) said that she loves the way white people smell. I think that it’s really funny that we have a smell. But I get what she means because I noticed a distinct African smell when I first got here. I don’t smell it anymore.
Arnold’s family is pretty interesting, at least to a non-African. His now American sister moved to the US when she was 21 with her husband. She studied at night college and then got her masters and now is a K-3rd grade teacher in Newark, living in Easton, PA. She is the second girl of 8 kids total, Arnold being somewhere in the middle. Arnold’s mom is his father’s second wife. His dad is the chief of their tribe and the district magistrate or something, which means that he’s entitled to having many wives. He has three total. We met wife #1 and she seemed very demure and of course, welcoming. One of Arnold’s brothers lives in China, and the oldest sister lives in Yaoundé. We’re going to see her next weekend when I go visit Janet the ambassador. We’ll be able to stay with the sister Nelly, and that will be really nice. Also Vitalis, (the friend who is still very interested in Star Trek tapes
And here’s why diffusion will be a good thing. I had never really given Asher, the American trainee from the US who’s been staying in an African home with her boss and boss’s family since we got here, always complained about the way the family treated her, until this weekend. In African household kids are seen as free labor, sort of like how my dad sees us. JK, it’s not even close. When we got to Arnold’s the kids (his sibling and half-siblings) snatched our shoes and went to clean them. I have literally never seen my sneakers that clean since the day I bought them, and they had layers and layers of red African mud plus Glens Falls Hospital grossness on them. They did this throughout our 3-night stay in Kumba. Also, the royal treatment extended to Arnold paying for EVERYTHING, which was his prerogative so ultimately I let him after much resistance, but it gave me a really weird feeling to let him pay for our food and drinks and transportation and everything. I don’t even want to think about how far back this weekend has set him. And finally there was this overarching feeling of overprotection and possessiveness. When we went to the market Arnold and his half brother Hilary wouldn’t let us look at whatever we wanted, we had to go to stands that were secluded because they were convinced we’d be stolen from them or mugged or something if we walked where everyone else was. Also, at the club we went to with Arnold and his weird uncles and Yvette, the now-American, there was a drunk guy who kept trying to dance with Laura and I, which is normal anywhere in the world, but the men in our party WAY overreacted. The guy followed our group out to the taxi and asked Laura for her number and she said no thanks and got in the cab and we thought that would be that but the men we were with actually ended up yelling and punching and beating the guy. I believe that was the turning point at which Laura and I decided their protection was unnecessary and creepy. Lastly, I plan on climbing Mount Cameroon this weekend, and Arnold kept saying “if I had my way you wouldn’t climb the mountain, it’s really cold and very slippery in the rainy season blah blah”. I am SO glad not to be an African woman, because I would have to put up with this crap from men all the time and it’s ridiculous. I could analyze this more objectively from an anthropological perspective but I’m tired of doing that all the time so I am just going to say that it sucks for African women. SUCKS.
Kumba overall was great, as was living with a family, though Laura and I both decided that we no longer envy Asher’s opportunity to live full-time with one. I drew several portraits of Arnold family members and one was really good. Tatiana and Cynthia, Arnold’s sisters braided my hair and Aya’s and I think we look pretty good. I have gotten many compliments from Cameroonians and trainees so it must be OK, although I don’t have a mirror (SO liberating by the way, everyone should go 8 weeks without a mirror at some point in their lives).
On the subject of hair, here goes some observations. Appearance is very important to Cameroonians. I don’t even know what the GDP of Cameroon is, but just think really really really low. And somehow people are dressed quite well, albeit mismatched at times or wearing what an American would try to sell at a yard sale. Overall though, they have great fashion sense and work with what is available to them in the way of clothes. But what really mystifies me is their hair styles. I always wondered how the got their hair to be so beautifully straight and glossy, and a few weeks ago co-workers revealed their secrets. They wear wigs. Their real hair is usually pretty short and braided in cornrows to their head. Then wigs are sewed to the corn rows. I cannot imagine how uncomfortable it would be to wear a wig like that for four months at a time. But that’s the norm here. The other thing is hair attachments. These are strips of hair (plastic Africa-textured hair in any color imaginable that are sold all over the place) that are glued to real hair or sewed in a mysterious way. Finally there are braids. Braids would be no good if there was nothing artificial to work into them, which is what Aya and I finally opted for this weekend. We bought what is called mesh, and that mesh was braided into cornrows of our real hair and then the ed were dipped in boiling water which makes them just grip togther enough to look real still but keep the braid from unwinding itself. Quite ingenios. Right now my head is itching so bad. Any African woman mustn’t get her hair wet (not sure why yet- to be answered later) so they walk around with plastic bags on their heads a lot because we are in the rainy season. Also shampooing a wig or attachments or braids is a no-go. I was advised to keep the braids in for one month but I don’t know if I will even be able to fall asleep tonight with the itching like it is now but I will really try to suffer through it
Another observation about Cameroonian appearances: they all know how to walk in mud so that they don’t get a spec on them. I am only slightly clumsy and focus VERY hard on trying to keep on solid dry-ish clay rather than deep mud wherever we go, but I still find myself with must between my foot and flip flop every time I walk outside. Still, and I am till not used to the squishy feeling and the clean-up. But what people here lack in speed they make up for in treading carefully and cleanly. I never see dirty hemlines or shoes or sandals or toes. It’s amazing. And the clean-shoe obsession is African, not Western. We tend to sacrifice the appearance of our footwear because we can buy more shoes when the ones we own are old or dirty, but when you can’t you protect and constantly clean the ones you have. In fact, Westerners like the broken-in look to some extent, but that is not attractive to people here. They like brand-spanking new.
Cameroonians are just immaculate all around though. They have spotless taxis and hallways and porches and carpets (no vacuums though, so again, I have no idea how they achieve this). I think cleanliness is a HUGE value to them. They shower despite limited running water at least once every day.
One Cameroonian friend Helen, (going to live in the US on Thursday actually, it’s really a cool think to be here while she gets ready to join her sister in Baltimore) said that she loves the way white people smell. I think that it’s really funny that we have a smell. But I get what she means because I noticed a distinct African smell when I first got here. I don’t smell it anymore.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Random thoughts from the week of July 20th
I have a request to make to my readers. If you think you can help the grant-writing process at all by providing leads to foundations or tips on inquiry letters and/or proposals that would be awesome. But above all else I would really like to give my friend Vitalis as many Star Trek DVDs as I can get my hands on. If you think you can help in this area please email me! (cgm33@cornell.edu).
So I have been asked to cover more about the culture and I just thought maybe really quick examples would be good. Just a few hours ago I got back from watching a movie at Helen’s place. Helen is a trainee from Holland and she is staying at a girl’s hostel. I admit that I am a little jealous because living with 2 girls who are not African sort of removes you a bit from the immersion I was hoping for. At the same time it’s really really nice not to have mice in our house like Helen has in her hostel room which she shares with a Cameroonian girl named Dorcas. What this ultimately means for Helen is that she is one six ft.-tall blonde haired, blue eyed girl among 45 Cameroonian college-age girls who worship the ground she walks on. We were interrupted twice in the span of one movie with invites to come upstairs and meet inquisitive residents as well as plates of food. It was really nice but when we were done with the movie I think everyone was asleep.
We know because we flashed them and they didn’t flash back. Flashing is a way to contact someone without spending too much valuable credit on a phone call. People here use a system sort of like our trac-phones, where they buy a certain amount of credit and then just add more as they need to. I definitely think it ends up being more than what Americans pay for with a monthly calling plan, but it does create jobs. I would say (and this I wish was a joke but it’s not) that 40% of the gainfully employed people around here sit all day long at little wooden boxes with their cell phone and wait for people to come along so they can put more credit on their customers’ phones. What’s really sad is that since there are hardly any chances for young ambitious graduates to jump into the work force (even at the bottom wrung of the ladder with plans to work one’s way up) you see that most of the call-box people have degrees and dreams and this is just the best way to feed themselves for the time being. It’s really tough. Bill told us the other day that only 30% of the graduates will find employment in Cameroon within two years of graduating. That makes the temporary recession-induced hiring freeze in the US seem like no big deal. That 30% has been a reality for Cameroon since the beginning of higher education, but yet so many kids still go because the government does make it pretty affordable to attend university. And the public universities are (similar to what Laura has said of German universities) much better than private schools. This fact is probably the only positive thing I’ve heard of the Cameroonian government since I came here.
A random thought before I go to bed. The way Cameroonians pronounce “government” is SO cool to me for some reason. Watch Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond and he says it once or twice and that’s close enough to get the idea. It just makes you feel like you are in a Bob Marley song or something. Hard to explain. Good night!
Oh wait, one last thought. I promise. The other day in class we were playing an icebreaker and I had a kid in my group who told me his name was Leonardo DiCaprio. I don’t think he was kidding. But then again the last name DiCaprio is not Cameroonian at all, there are NO Italians here. I was and still am really confused because he signed the attendance sheet as Leonardo DiCaprio and his email is apparently ghettoleoking@yahoo.com . I am glad I only joked with him about being Kate Winslet for a little while before dropping it.
So I have been asked to cover more about the culture and I just thought maybe really quick examples would be good. Just a few hours ago I got back from watching a movie at Helen’s place. Helen is a trainee from Holland and she is staying at a girl’s hostel. I admit that I am a little jealous because living with 2 girls who are not African sort of removes you a bit from the immersion I was hoping for. At the same time it’s really really nice not to have mice in our house like Helen has in her hostel room which she shares with a Cameroonian girl named Dorcas. What this ultimately means for Helen is that she is one six ft.-tall blonde haired, blue eyed girl among 45 Cameroonian college-age girls who worship the ground she walks on. We were interrupted twice in the span of one movie with invites to come upstairs and meet inquisitive residents as well as plates of food. It was really nice but when we were done with the movie I think everyone was asleep.
We know because we flashed them and they didn’t flash back. Flashing is a way to contact someone without spending too much valuable credit on a phone call. People here use a system sort of like our trac-phones, where they buy a certain amount of credit and then just add more as they need to. I definitely think it ends up being more than what Americans pay for with a monthly calling plan, but it does create jobs. I would say (and this I wish was a joke but it’s not) that 40% of the gainfully employed people around here sit all day long at little wooden boxes with their cell phone and wait for people to come along so they can put more credit on their customers’ phones. What’s really sad is that since there are hardly any chances for young ambitious graduates to jump into the work force (even at the bottom wrung of the ladder with plans to work one’s way up) you see that most of the call-box people have degrees and dreams and this is just the best way to feed themselves for the time being. It’s really tough. Bill told us the other day that only 30% of the graduates will find employment in Cameroon within two years of graduating. That makes the temporary recession-induced hiring freeze in the US seem like no big deal. That 30% has been a reality for Cameroon since the beginning of higher education, but yet so many kids still go because the government does make it pretty affordable to attend university. And the public universities are (similar to what Laura has said of German universities) much better than private schools. This fact is probably the only positive thing I’ve heard of the Cameroonian government since I came here.
A random thought before I go to bed. The way Cameroonians pronounce “government” is SO cool to me for some reason. Watch Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond and he says it once or twice and that’s close enough to get the idea. It just makes you feel like you are in a Bob Marley song or something. Hard to explain. Good night!
Oh wait, one last thought. I promise. The other day in class we were playing an icebreaker and I had a kid in my group who told me his name was Leonardo DiCaprio. I don’t think he was kidding. But then again the last name DiCaprio is not Cameroonian at all, there are NO Italians here. I was and still am really confused because he signed the attendance sheet as Leonardo DiCaprio and his email is apparently ghettoleoking@yahoo.com . I am glad I only joked with him about being Kate Winslet for a little while before dropping it.
The Week of July 12th
Yesterday was a great day. For a while I was feeling my patience strain in interactions with Cameroonian co-workers, people on the street, and my housemates. I think I did a pretty good job of hiding it, and the impatient feelings have subsided at least for the time being. It’s frustrating to be late all the time (I know my readers are finding that statement hard to believe, coming from me) but when you’re late all the time just because people walk slow it kills me. I have had a very hard time parting from my usual walking speed- a very fast pace that emulates speed-walking, necessary for those who cut it really really close all the time. There is a different emphasis on punctuality depending on the culture of a place. Locals have told me that when they were young, on a few occasions they did show up on time, but after having to wait on the event or the other attendees for up to an hour, they realized that later is better. Here people leave at the time they said they would meet. If church starts at 10:00 then don’t get there until 10:20 because you would have ended up catching the last 20 minutes of the early service, then having to sit through the service you had intended to, which won’t end until quarter to 1.
On the subject of church: the service I went to this past Sunday bothered me. Laura and I went with our co-worker Pam to her church called the Mercenary Gospel Baptist Church. The music was great but it wasn’t enough to pull me out of the low mood the sermon put me in. The pastor who spoke was just visiting from Nigeria, and he had an agenda in Cameroon. He preached about how the Nigerians have prospered and capitalized on their natural resources because they have made Jesus their nation’s master. The word “master” was used a lot, and I found that really strange, considering Cameroon’s history with the slave trade. As the pastor went on to mix politics and religion I got more and more anxious to leave. I understand that people living in poverty under a dictatorship that stifles any attempt at private business ventures need to put their hope and faith more devotedly in God than those of us living in a capitalist world with more comforts and conveniences than we need. I get that. But until that church service I had really struggled with the causation for all the poverty here. Any Cameroonian will tell you that it isn’t lack of resources- it’s the government, it’s mismanagement. I was shocked at how comfortable everyone is with blaming the man and then resigning themselves to “there’s really nothing we can do, would you like some more cassava?” At church I saw why there is that resignation- and what a Westerner like me tries really hard not to say but can’t help but think- that complacency. Like the pastor advised, when people are studying for an exam, they put their faith in Christ and they will surely pass. When they are trying to open a business they pray for capitol and it will come. I think a certain amount of faith is healthy but in many cases here it is taken to the extreme and actually ends up in a non-productive dependency upon God. And at church that dependency was being perpetuated by a highly respected minister and I just didn’t like it. Maybe I overreacted but it was hard to shake off. I am realizing what exactly sets “The West” apart. One thing I’ve realized is that I am incredibly secular in thought, more so than I thought back at home.
This secular mentality leads me to the subject of an instance at work. I realize that first I need to sum up what I’m doing at work so here goes: Aya, Laura, and I go to work from 9 to 4 Monday through Friday. On Tuesday we go to a school called Zenith Evening School (which is really just a normal school, I don’t get the “evening” part of it) and teach about HIV/AIDS for an hour (that’s what we’re supposed to limit ourselves to, but last week we talked for an hour and 45 minutes). We try to get there by 11 because these are holiday classes and students are dismissed by noon. But again, we go over, and the kids don’t seem to care too much. On Mondays we spend a lot of time at the internet doing research about grants for NGO’s like ours, the Elyon Rock Foundation. I have had a lot of luck in finding loads of American Foundations (Coca-Cola, Carnegie, Mellon, etc.) but Laura has had a lot of trouble with German companies as is Aya with finding Japanese funding. I think Laura has actually given up on getting any money from her mother country and is now hitting up American foundations like me. Wednesdays we go to a school called Salvation Bilingual College (Cameroonians speak both French and English) and deliver the same lesson we did on Tuesday. Then we have Thursdays for donor research/proposal writing. Fridays are very busy because we have two schools, one at 9 and one at 11. The one at 9 is the tricky because it’s the St. Theresa Catholic Secondary School (we’ll talk more about that later) and the one at 11 is Summerset Bilingual College.
Always after teaching classes we head back to the office, then the internet to do more research and letter-writing. It seems mundane but classes and lunch are really exciting. Lunch probably more so because we have been hopping around from spot to spot- everyday we tried something new. That was until we found Mr. Clean. Mr. Clean actually went on vacation so now we are eating mostly at Mr. Munch. The reason these places attract us is because they do not serve tremendously spicy food. And Mr.Clean was really cheap, you could get good tasting rice and beans or ndole and plantains (my fave) for 350 francs, which is far less than a dollar.
So back to the religion in this culture. Today we were playing a game at Zenith with a class of 17 kids from ages 11 to 16. We may have overestimated ages because the game ended up being a bit awkwardly received. We asked questions of the class and kids would go to one side of the room marked “agree” or another side marked “disagree” or a different area marked “unsure”. Questions were “If a woman says no to having sexual intercourse, she really means no” or “I would drink out of the same glass as a person who is HIV positive” or “A woman cannot be raped by her husband.” It was the last one that really gave us some trouble. A third of the kids stood firmly along the “agree” wall. Aya thought that they must have misunderstood, (and to be on the safe side we repeat messages to the class almost three times because we each pose them with accents that make us hard to understand). I had a bad feeling that this was not the case and that in actuality these students were of the firm opinion that wives are property. It is worth mentioning that some of these agreeing students were girls. We asked a representative or two from each wall to explain why they chose the side they did. The one from the “agree” side said bluntly “the Bible says that a woman gives herself to a man when she marries him. A wife gives a man her body.” Aya and I looked at each other and I could tell she was going to protest somehow, but I suggested loudly that we hear from the disagree side and then move on. One of the rules I made for myself before beginning that game was that no matter how students felt I would try very hard not to make them feel wrong. It is their culture, I am an observer and by trying to impose my feminist values, (or what could be argued is just fundamental awareness of human rights), on them it would not change anything, but it might make us less wholeheartedly received. It was hardest though, to let the teacher sitting towards the back of the class applaud the kid for his statement and commend him on referencing the Bible. It was like what the kid was saying about rape was totally fine as long as it was from the Bible. The kid used the Bible to support rape. I know that he made that connection because Aya and I, after hearing his answer tried to ask in an objective way, if he would please define rape for us. He knew what it meant. Then we asked if there might be any occasion in which a woman would not consent to having intercourse with her husband. He said yes, maybe if she did not want to or did not want to have babies. So there is some sort of disconnect between the rightfulness or wrongfulness of rape in the circumstance of marriage- and that is imposed by the Bible, or this society’s interpretation of the Bible.
We are not allowed to educate students about condom use at St. Theresa’s Catholic School. We are to encourage abstinence although the priest/school master conceded that there are students at his school who may be sexually active. It’s funny that at the school where they tried to shelter the students most, I was asked twice for my number by boys in the class.
On the subject of church: the service I went to this past Sunday bothered me. Laura and I went with our co-worker Pam to her church called the Mercenary Gospel Baptist Church. The music was great but it wasn’t enough to pull me out of the low mood the sermon put me in. The pastor who spoke was just visiting from Nigeria, and he had an agenda in Cameroon. He preached about how the Nigerians have prospered and capitalized on their natural resources because they have made Jesus their nation’s master. The word “master” was used a lot, and I found that really strange, considering Cameroon’s history with the slave trade. As the pastor went on to mix politics and religion I got more and more anxious to leave. I understand that people living in poverty under a dictatorship that stifles any attempt at private business ventures need to put their hope and faith more devotedly in God than those of us living in a capitalist world with more comforts and conveniences than we need. I get that. But until that church service I had really struggled with the causation for all the poverty here. Any Cameroonian will tell you that it isn’t lack of resources- it’s the government, it’s mismanagement. I was shocked at how comfortable everyone is with blaming the man and then resigning themselves to “there’s really nothing we can do, would you like some more cassava?” At church I saw why there is that resignation- and what a Westerner like me tries really hard not to say but can’t help but think- that complacency. Like the pastor advised, when people are studying for an exam, they put their faith in Christ and they will surely pass. When they are trying to open a business they pray for capitol and it will come. I think a certain amount of faith is healthy but in many cases here it is taken to the extreme and actually ends up in a non-productive dependency upon God. And at church that dependency was being perpetuated by a highly respected minister and I just didn’t like it. Maybe I overreacted but it was hard to shake off. I am realizing what exactly sets “The West” apart. One thing I’ve realized is that I am incredibly secular in thought, more so than I thought back at home.
This secular mentality leads me to the subject of an instance at work. I realize that first I need to sum up what I’m doing at work so here goes: Aya, Laura, and I go to work from 9 to 4 Monday through Friday. On Tuesday we go to a school called Zenith Evening School (which is really just a normal school, I don’t get the “evening” part of it) and teach about HIV/AIDS for an hour (that’s what we’re supposed to limit ourselves to, but last week we talked for an hour and 45 minutes). We try to get there by 11 because these are holiday classes and students are dismissed by noon. But again, we go over, and the kids don’t seem to care too much. On Mondays we spend a lot of time at the internet doing research about grants for NGO’s like ours, the Elyon Rock Foundation. I have had a lot of luck in finding loads of American Foundations (Coca-Cola, Carnegie, Mellon, etc.) but Laura has had a lot of trouble with German companies as is Aya with finding Japanese funding. I think Laura has actually given up on getting any money from her mother country and is now hitting up American foundations like me. Wednesdays we go to a school called Salvation Bilingual College (Cameroonians speak both French and English) and deliver the same lesson we did on Tuesday. Then we have Thursdays for donor research/proposal writing. Fridays are very busy because we have two schools, one at 9 and one at 11. The one at 9 is the tricky because it’s the St. Theresa Catholic Secondary School (we’ll talk more about that later) and the one at 11 is Summerset Bilingual College.
Always after teaching classes we head back to the office, then the internet to do more research and letter-writing. It seems mundane but classes and lunch are really exciting. Lunch probably more so because we have been hopping around from spot to spot- everyday we tried something new. That was until we found Mr. Clean. Mr. Clean actually went on vacation so now we are eating mostly at Mr. Munch. The reason these places attract us is because they do not serve tremendously spicy food. And Mr.Clean was really cheap, you could get good tasting rice and beans or ndole and plantains (my fave) for 350 francs, which is far less than a dollar.
So back to the religion in this culture. Today we were playing a game at Zenith with a class of 17 kids from ages 11 to 16. We may have overestimated ages because the game ended up being a bit awkwardly received. We asked questions of the class and kids would go to one side of the room marked “agree” or another side marked “disagree” or a different area marked “unsure”. Questions were “If a woman says no to having sexual intercourse, she really means no” or “I would drink out of the same glass as a person who is HIV positive” or “A woman cannot be raped by her husband.” It was the last one that really gave us some trouble. A third of the kids stood firmly along the “agree” wall. Aya thought that they must have misunderstood, (and to be on the safe side we repeat messages to the class almost three times because we each pose them with accents that make us hard to understand). I had a bad feeling that this was not the case and that in actuality these students were of the firm opinion that wives are property. It is worth mentioning that some of these agreeing students were girls. We asked a representative or two from each wall to explain why they chose the side they did. The one from the “agree” side said bluntly “the Bible says that a woman gives herself to a man when she marries him. A wife gives a man her body.” Aya and I looked at each other and I could tell she was going to protest somehow, but I suggested loudly that we hear from the disagree side and then move on. One of the rules I made for myself before beginning that game was that no matter how students felt I would try very hard not to make them feel wrong. It is their culture, I am an observer and by trying to impose my feminist values, (or what could be argued is just fundamental awareness of human rights), on them it would not change anything, but it might make us less wholeheartedly received. It was hardest though, to let the teacher sitting towards the back of the class applaud the kid for his statement and commend him on referencing the Bible. It was like what the kid was saying about rape was totally fine as long as it was from the Bible. The kid used the Bible to support rape. I know that he made that connection because Aya and I, after hearing his answer tried to ask in an objective way, if he would please define rape for us. He knew what it meant. Then we asked if there might be any occasion in which a woman would not consent to having intercourse with her husband. He said yes, maybe if she did not want to or did not want to have babies. So there is some sort of disconnect between the rightfulness or wrongfulness of rape in the circumstance of marriage- and that is imposed by the Bible, or this society’s interpretation of the Bible.
We are not allowed to educate students about condom use at St. Theresa’s Catholic School. We are to encourage abstinence although the priest/school master conceded that there are students at his school who may be sexually active. It’s funny that at the school where they tried to shelter the students most, I was asked twice for my number by boys in the class.
week of July 12th
Yesterday was a great day. For a while I was feeling my patience strain in interactions with Cameroonian co-workers, people on the street, and my housemates. I think I did a pretty good job of hiding it, and the impatient feelings have subsided at least for the time being. It’s frustrating to be late all the time (I know my readers are finding that statement hard to believe, coming from me) but when you’re late all the time just because people walk slow it kills me. I have had a very hard time parting from my usual walking speed- a very fast pace that emulates speed-walking, necessary for those who cut it really really close all the time. There is a different emphasis on punctuality depending on the culture of a place. Locals have told me that when they were young, on a few occasions they did show up on time, but after having to wait on the event or the other attendees for up to an hour, they realized that later is better. Here people leave at the time they said they would meet. If church starts at 10:00 then don’t get there until 10:20 because you would have ended up catching the last 20 minutes of the early service, then having to sit through the service you had intended to, which won’t end until quarter to 1.
On the subject of church: the service I went to this past Sunday bothered me. Laura and I went with our co-worker Pam to her church called the Mercenary Gospel Baptist Church. The music was great but it wasn’t enough to pull me out of the low mood the sermon put me in. The pastor who spoke was just visiting from Nigeria, and he had an agenda in Cameroon. He preached about how the Nigerians have prospered and capitalized on their natural resources because they have made Jesus their nation’s master. The word “master” was used a lot, and I found that really strange, considering Cameroon’s history with the slave trade. As the pastor went on to mix politics and religion I got more and more anxious to leave. I understand that people living in poverty under a dictatorship that stifles any attempt at private business ventures need to put their hope and faith more devotedly in God than those of us living in a capitalist world with more comforts and conveniences than we need. I get that. But until that church service I had really struggled with the causation for all the poverty here. Any Cameroonian will tell you that it isn’t lack of resources- it’s the government, it’s mismanagement. I was shocked at how comfortable everyone is with blaming the man and then resigning themselves to “there’s really nothing we can do, would you like some more cassava?” At church I saw why there is that resignation- and what a Westerner like me tries really hard not to say but can’t help but think- that complacency. Like the pastor advised, when people are studying for an exam, they put their faith in Christ and they will surely pass. When they are trying to open a business they pray for capitol and it will come. I think a certain amount of faith is healthy but in many cases here it is taken to the extreme and actually ends up in a non-productive dependency upon God. And at church that dependency was being perpetuated by a highly respected minister and I just didn’t like it. Maybe I overreacted but it was hard to shake off. I am realizing what exactly sets “The West” apart. One thing I’ve realized is that I am incredibly secular in thought, more so than I thought back at home.
This secular mentality leads me to the subject of an instance at work. I realize that first I need to sum up what I’m doing at work so here goes: Aya, Laura, and I go to work from 9 to 4 Monday through Friday. On Tuesday we go to a school called Zenith Evening School (which is really just a normal school, I don’t get the “evening” part of it) and teach about HIV/AIDS for an hour (that’s what we’re supposed to limit ourselves to, but last week we talked for an hour and 45 minutes). We try to get there by 11 because these are holiday classes and students are dismissed by noon. But again, we go over, and the kids don’t seem to care too much. On Mondays we spend a lot of time at the internet doing research about grants for NGO’s like ours, the Elyon Rock Foundation. I have had a lot of luck in finding loads of American Foundations (Coca-Cola, Carnegie, Mellon, etc.) but Laura has had a lot of trouble with German companies as is Aya with finding Japanese funding. I think Laura has actually given up on getting any money from her mother country and is now hitting up American foundations like me. Wednesdays we go to a school called Salvation Bilingual College (Cameroonians speak both French and English) and deliver the same lesson we did on Tuesday. Then we have Thursdays for donor research/proposal writing. Fridays are very busy because we have two schools, one at 9 and one at 11. The one at 9 is the tricky because it’s the St. Theresa Catholic Secondary School (we’ll talk more about that later) and the one at 11 is Summerset Bilingual College.
Always after teaching classes we head back to the office, then the internet to do more research and letter-writing. It seems mundane but classes and lunch are really exciting. Lunch probably more so because we have been hopping around from spot to spot- everyday we tried something new. That was until we found Mr. Clean. Mr. Clean actually went on vacation so now we are eating mostly at Mr. Munch. The reason these places attract us is because they do not serve tremendously spicy food. And Mr.Clean was really cheap, you could get good tasting rice and beans or ndole and plantains (my fave) for 350 francs, which is far less than a dollar.
So back to the religion in this culture. Today we were playing a game at Zenith with a class of 17 kids from ages 11 to 16. We may have overestimated ages because the game ended up being a bit awkwardly received. We asked questions of the class and kids would go to one side of the room marked “agree” or another side marked “disagree” or a different area marked “unsure”. Questions were “If a woman says no to having sexual intercourse, she really means no” or “I would drink out of the same glass as a person who is HIV positive” or “A woman cannot be raped by her husband.” It was the last one that really gave us some trouble. A third of the kids stood firmly along the “agree” wall. Aya thought that they must have misunderstood, (and to be on the safe side we repeat messages to the class almost three times because we each pose them with accents that make us hard to understand). I had a bad feeling that this was not the case and that in actuality these students were of the firm opinion that wives are property. It is worth mentioning that some of these agreeing students were girls. We asked a representative or two from each wall to explain why they chose the side they did. The one from the “agree” side said bluntly “the Bible says that a woman gives herself to a man when she marries him. A wife gives a man her body.” Aya and I looked at each other and I could tell she was going to protest somehow, but I suggested loudly that we hear from the disagree side and then move on. One of the rules I made for myself before beginning that game was that no matter how students felt I would try very hard not to make them feel wrong. It is their culture, I am an observer and by trying to impose my feminist values, (or what could be argued is just fundamental awareness of human rights), on them it would not change anything, but it might make us less wholeheartedly received. It was hardest though, to let the teacher sitting towards the back of the class applaud the kid for his statement and commend him on referencing the Bible. It was like what the kid was saying about rape was totally fine as long as it was from the Bible. The kid used the Bible to support rape. I know that he made that connection because Aya and I, after hearing his answer tried to ask in an objective way, if he would please define rape for us. He knew what it meant. Then we asked if there might be any occasion in which a woman would not consent to having intercourse with her husband. He said yes, maybe if she did not want to or did not want to have babies. So there is some sort of disconnect between the rightfulness or wrongfulness of rape in the circumstance of marriage- and that is imposed by the Bible, or this society’s interpretation of the Bible.
We are not allowed to educate students about condom use at St. Theresa’s Catholic School. We are to encourage abstinence although the priest/school master conceded that there are students at his school who may be sexually active. It’s funny that at the school where they tried to shelter the students most, I was asked twice for my number by boys in the class.
On the subject of church: the service I went to this past Sunday bothered me. Laura and I went with our co-worker Pam to her church called the Mercenary Gospel Baptist Church. The music was great but it wasn’t enough to pull me out of the low mood the sermon put me in. The pastor who spoke was just visiting from Nigeria, and he had an agenda in Cameroon. He preached about how the Nigerians have prospered and capitalized on their natural resources because they have made Jesus their nation’s master. The word “master” was used a lot, and I found that really strange, considering Cameroon’s history with the slave trade. As the pastor went on to mix politics and religion I got more and more anxious to leave. I understand that people living in poverty under a dictatorship that stifles any attempt at private business ventures need to put their hope and faith more devotedly in God than those of us living in a capitalist world with more comforts and conveniences than we need. I get that. But until that church service I had really struggled with the causation for all the poverty here. Any Cameroonian will tell you that it isn’t lack of resources- it’s the government, it’s mismanagement. I was shocked at how comfortable everyone is with blaming the man and then resigning themselves to “there’s really nothing we can do, would you like some more cassava?” At church I saw why there is that resignation- and what a Westerner like me tries really hard not to say but can’t help but think- that complacency. Like the pastor advised, when people are studying for an exam, they put their faith in Christ and they will surely pass. When they are trying to open a business they pray for capitol and it will come. I think a certain amount of faith is healthy but in many cases here it is taken to the extreme and actually ends up in a non-productive dependency upon God. And at church that dependency was being perpetuated by a highly respected minister and I just didn’t like it. Maybe I overreacted but it was hard to shake off. I am realizing what exactly sets “The West” apart. One thing I’ve realized is that I am incredibly secular in thought, more so than I thought back at home.
This secular mentality leads me to the subject of an instance at work. I realize that first I need to sum up what I’m doing at work so here goes: Aya, Laura, and I go to work from 9 to 4 Monday through Friday. On Tuesday we go to a school called Zenith Evening School (which is really just a normal school, I don’t get the “evening” part of it) and teach about HIV/AIDS for an hour (that’s what we’re supposed to limit ourselves to, but last week we talked for an hour and 45 minutes). We try to get there by 11 because these are holiday classes and students are dismissed by noon. But again, we go over, and the kids don’t seem to care too much. On Mondays we spend a lot of time at the internet doing research about grants for NGO’s like ours, the Elyon Rock Foundation. I have had a lot of luck in finding loads of American Foundations (Coca-Cola, Carnegie, Mellon, etc.) but Laura has had a lot of trouble with German companies as is Aya with finding Japanese funding. I think Laura has actually given up on getting any money from her mother country and is now hitting up American foundations like me. Wednesdays we go to a school called Salvation Bilingual College (Cameroonians speak both French and English) and deliver the same lesson we did on Tuesday. Then we have Thursdays for donor research/proposal writing. Fridays are very busy because we have two schools, one at 9 and one at 11. The one at 9 is the tricky because it’s the St. Theresa Catholic Secondary School (we’ll talk more about that later) and the one at 11 is Summerset Bilingual College.
Always after teaching classes we head back to the office, then the internet to do more research and letter-writing. It seems mundane but classes and lunch are really exciting. Lunch probably more so because we have been hopping around from spot to spot- everyday we tried something new. That was until we found Mr. Clean. Mr. Clean actually went on vacation so now we are eating mostly at Mr. Munch. The reason these places attract us is because they do not serve tremendously spicy food. And Mr.Clean was really cheap, you could get good tasting rice and beans or ndole and plantains (my fave) for 350 francs, which is far less than a dollar.
So back to the religion in this culture. Today we were playing a game at Zenith with a class of 17 kids from ages 11 to 16. We may have overestimated ages because the game ended up being a bit awkwardly received. We asked questions of the class and kids would go to one side of the room marked “agree” or another side marked “disagree” or a different area marked “unsure”. Questions were “If a woman says no to having sexual intercourse, she really means no” or “I would drink out of the same glass as a person who is HIV positive” or “A woman cannot be raped by her husband.” It was the last one that really gave us some trouble. A third of the kids stood firmly along the “agree” wall. Aya thought that they must have misunderstood, (and to be on the safe side we repeat messages to the class almost three times because we each pose them with accents that make us hard to understand). I had a bad feeling that this was not the case and that in actuality these students were of the firm opinion that wives are property. It is worth mentioning that some of these agreeing students were girls. We asked a representative or two from each wall to explain why they chose the side they did. The one from the “agree” side said bluntly “the Bible says that a woman gives herself to a man when she marries him. A wife gives a man her body.” Aya and I looked at each other and I could tell she was going to protest somehow, but I suggested loudly that we hear from the disagree side and then move on. One of the rules I made for myself before beginning that game was that no matter how students felt I would try very hard not to make them feel wrong. It is their culture, I am an observer and by trying to impose my feminist values, (or what could be argued is just fundamental awareness of human rights), on them it would not change anything, but it might make us less wholeheartedly received. It was hardest though, to let the teacher sitting towards the back of the class applaud the kid for his statement and commend him on referencing the Bible. It was like what the kid was saying about rape was totally fine as long as it was from the Bible. The kid used the Bible to support rape. I know that he made that connection because Aya and I, after hearing his answer tried to ask in an objective way, if he would please define rape for us. He knew what it meant. Then we asked if there might be any occasion in which a woman would not consent to having intercourse with her husband. He said yes, maybe if she did not want to or did not want to have babies. So there is some sort of disconnect between the rightfulness or wrongfulness of rape in the circumstance of marriage- and that is imposed by the Bible, or this society’s interpretation of the Bible.
We are not allowed to educate students about condom use at St. Theresa’s Catholic School. We are to encourage abstinence although the priest/school master conceded that there are students at his school who may be sexually active. It’s funny that at the school where they tried to shelter the students most, I was asked twice for my number by boys in the class.
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